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28 de mai de 2017

Sultan Pasha Irisoir (English)


 It really fills me with pleasure trying a fragrance where you can see that the author really tied the concept with execution. I don't believe innovation is always what produces the best fragrances, but a clear concept and a good execution certainly does. Irisoir is according its author an ode to the iris of yesterday and a homage to Belle Époque. It is an interesting marriage of the French classic perfumery in an arab execution. It's delicate and powerful at the same time - i must say it's very hard to achieve this, when you compose usually you get one of them and both is a matter of very fine tunning and a good knowledge of your materials. It's not exactly a straightfoward orris interpretation - it doesn't smell earthy. It has to me an aura that starts green and leafy due the violet leaf and then it shows the more anisic facets of mimosa and lilac, conveying an almost polen like tonality. The iris itself shows in subtle ways, with its woody and buttery sides mingling with the woods and ambergris base. It certainly feels classic and at the same time Melancholic and romantic, things that i associate with the Belle Epoque time. It certainly doesn't feel dated and anyone without a background on classic scents would appreciate it.