14 de abr de 2017
Something you might notice after paying closely attention to the themes and descriptions of all O'Driú fragrances is that they are in their surface nothing more than an acid and ironic take on what many mainstream brands do with their concepts and descriptions for their fragrances. Angelo uses the same weapons to fight against the system, but the same essence and this what makes every O'driú fragrance a compelling experience. It's like listening to good weird music: at first the synths might sound odd, but the more you listen to it the more you see the balance and structure lurking on the background.
In Satyricon Angelo and his collaborative team draws inspiration from Ancient Rome from a Dyonisian perspective, something that seems to appeal to the irrational, the instincts and emotions on perfumery. It's a more philosophic take on the lust and pleasure principle appeal that perfumery as whole seems to explore, but ones that promises you chaos, classic influences and a plethora of nuances and delivers it. Just like Peety, Satyricon is again a chameleonic scent and channels very different things through its presence on skin.
It opens in a weird way like some of Angelo creations, with a green humid aroma that seems to come from chamomile and sage together. This is contrasted with a very dry and burnt like leathery aroma. Once you focus on it the scents gives you a blast of spices, a duet of dry clove against a cumin that delivers here the sweat of human bodies that the description says. Then, there is the wine and food nuances, and the combination of spices and wine makes of think of mulled wine. There is an intriguing pineapple effect here that seems to go in and out of focus on the first moments of the development. Then it's replaced by a riped plum aroma that seems to give with the clove and a dry amber background a sort of vintage chypre aura. But Satyricon is here to enjoy the ride, so it shifts again into something more resinous and vanilla like, a very cozy and languid base after the sensory overload of the first moments on skin.
Pathetique is one of the most dry and foward criticism of Angelo to the perfume industry as the name says it all. It's a mock of what marketing has become in the perfume industry, with all the perfume dinasties, fancy imaginary materials and fake royalty histories. The way the name is written on the bottle and it's described shows that this intentions here are ones of bringing back (or bringing for the first time) the ethical path to perfumery again (path etique).
This certainly works because of the wonderful and sensual scent that unfolds on skin. It is for me one of the sunniest moments in Angelo's work as a whole. The languid impression that i feel on Satyricon base is the mood here overall, like a kind of feline enjoying the spot of sun in the middle of the afternoon. It opens with a beautiful honey flower impression that is set against of a quite coconut woody aroma - this is certainly an effect gave by a proeminent use of amyris wood, which has in itself this woody coconut sensation. Then you get a green berry-like aroma that is contrasted with something slightly aldehydic and woody and at this moment i feel like Satyricon is channeling a compact shape of Givenchy masterpiece Insensee. It settles down to a cozy and slightly incensy woody base that lingers on skin with very subtle sweet tones. Overall, it's a fragrance that gives me a relaxing and honest experience. The path is simple: do very good fragrances that speak for itself. They don't need to please everyone with generic marketing ploys, they just need to be genuine and well orchestrated. That this has to be reinforced at this moment of the game it's what is really pathetic in the perfume industry.