26 de abr de 2017
It has been quite often that niche or niche-like brands try to emphasize the richness and luxury of the materials that goes into their compositions, something that wants to put back the emphasis on the scent itself. However, it takes more than good materials to make a good fragrance, you certainly need a good concept and a good perfumer that really captures what is precious and special with that costly or rare absolute. The process is like shaping a raw precious stone into a perfect one and something much like what Masque Milano has done in their two latest fragrance inclusions into their third act.
In L'Attesa Luca Maffei is the goldsmith responsible for one of the costliest materials available to the perfumer, orris absolute. Using it is not an easy task due to the gray, almost funeral aspect of the earthy and cold nuances lying underneath the buttery, woody and creamy nuances of orris. Luca finds a balance where orris is able to shine without feeling sad. It's aroma smells refined, being able to highlight the vegetal earthy tone of orris in combination to a silky green floral aroma. This is supported by a base that at first smells like vetiver and then slowly reveals its sandalwood and suedish-like leather nuances. It is an amazing scent able to capture the best parts of orris.
Just like Luca, Cristiano Canali receives the blessing and the hard task of working with Narcissus Absolute in Romanza and the perfumer is able to create one of the best works with this flower so far. It's rare that narcissus fragrances captures all sides of this flower: the green aroma, the jasmine like nuances, the indolic aspect, the resinous final phase. Cristiano is able to emphasize all of them in Romanza without making it sound as if he has just diluted Narcissus or created an flat acccord. Romanza smells lush in its green floral bitterness that seems to have a velvet texture. It's one of those fragrances that captures a feeling from its notes and one that it is hard to break into its notes and doing something that smells quite abstract and quite focused at the same time is worthy of a masterpiece. If it was a stone, Romanza would certainly be a perfect and gorgeous Emerald.