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12 de fev de 2017

Tubéreuse 1 Capricieuse, Tubéreuse 2 Virginale, Tubereuse 40 AND MQueen EDP - Fragrance Reviews


In recent years the tuberose flower has returned to be trend in both the commercial perfumery and the niche as well. The complex, heady and intense aroma of the flower played a prominent role in the striking and expansive fragrance of the 1980s and many perfumes have employed it in its complex bouquets. From the 90s onwards and for much of the 2000s the flower was forgotten in a perfumery that sought to exalt more both cleanliness and intimacy in aquatic perfumes as the return to childhood in the gourmands, It also helped that its scent became worn out during the 80's due to its constant presence. Now, we can appreciate again many perfumes that put it in prominence in different contexts and I chose 4 today to highlight it.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 1 Capricieuse

The trilogy of compositions inspired by the narcotic flower was a wise bet on Histoires de Parfums in a trend that was still forming. It is interesting to observe how much the brand is precise in its description of the aroma, which is something rare to see in the press-release of perfumes: Capricieuse 1 represents the tuberose like a diva, stubborn, temperamental and demanding. The perfume corresponds and is as great as a representation of such a personality - we are faced with a tuberose that does not care about love and hate. Its aroma makes me think of the 80s: it is a composition where the floral aroma is intoxicating, animalic, intense and complex, mixing the narcotic and sweet smell of tuberose with ylang and using a leather base without fear of being animalic, chypre and dated. The iris helps increase the impact of tuberose and its aroma is powdery and sweet, complementing the floral sweetness of tuberose. It is a perfume for those who miss perfumes that impact and make a presence.

Histoires de Parfums Tubéreuse 2  Virginale

When I imagined the scent of this composition by its name only, I expected Tubereuse 2 to behave delicately, airily and transparently. However, our reference to the virginal aspect is not related to the perfume, but to the fact that the aroma of the tuberoses was considered so narcotic and erotic that the virgins were forbidden to walk through their fields at night. Therefore, while Capricieuse captures the most resounding and impacting side of Tuberose, Virginale is concerned with bringing its tropical, complex and intense aspect, showing its intoxicating aura but without focusing on the animalistic nuances. Thus, we have a tropical bouquet with lactonic nuances and that revolves around the tuberose, using waxy nuances of jasmine and the tropical and fruity aroma of the frangipani to complement it. The base is simple and more linear, a blend of musks, vanilla and patchouli touches that creates a slightly sweet, salty and moist feel, as if it represented the environment around the beautiful flowers that bloom and saturate the air with their scent.

Le Labo Tubereuse 40

Le Labo's strategy of naming its perfumes with the accorde/note representing the highest percentage of the formula has generated from the beginning expectations that are not met when the perfume is tried. The composition made to be exclusive in the New York store does not clearly conveys the aroma of Tuberose and is an example of how not everything that bears its name really refers to the flower. However, the brand has built an excellent citrus white floral bouquet, an harmonic reproduction of the orange blossom that never bumps into a functional aspect. Tubereuse 40 refers to orange blossoming and spreading through the air its citrus scent with green and honey nuances. The scent is built to hold that impression to the maximum, evolving into a base of clean, soft musks. Leaving aside unmet expectations is a good white floral composition.

MQueen EDP

It is interesting to note in MQueen EDP that not always the most intense and luxurious concentration is the best. The brand's launch and advertising strategy created an expectation on a product that did not match what it promised and charged, offering a linear aroma without too many surprises or richness. MQueen's EDP version in its most modest concentration and most affordable price is more interesting and better crafted. We are not faced with a soliflore of tuberoses but a composition that mixes touches of gardenia and jasmine to reinforce the aroma of the flower. The more fruity aroma of gardenia is mixed with the more sophisticated touch of jasmine grandiflorum and they complement the green and floral white aroma of tuberose. Spices give a light spicy touch and lead to a woody and amber base that is exotic and comfortable at the same time. MQueen is not an intense perfume nor so timid, lasting on the skin pleasantly and with enough projection to be noticed. It is not innovative, though it sounds luxurious in its proposal, something that rarely happens with the owner of Alexander McQueen's perfume license, Procter & Gamble.