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12 de dez de 2016

Sylvaine Delacourte Dovana - Fragrance Review


I see it as a natural path that after many years behind the creative direction of Guerlain Sylvaine Delacourte decided that it's time for a brand under her name and with her ideas. And it's not a surprise for me that she decided to make her first line of 5 fragrances united by a white musk concept. The abuse of musk bases in thin fragrances created a misconception that musks give a cheap aspect to a composition. The fact is that used in the right way they are certainly a force capable of round and exalt the most precious materials and bring unity and softness to a whole composition. This seems to be the idea here and Dovana is already a good example of that.

If you expect a clean functional idea of white musk, you'll certainly be surprised (or disappointed). Dovana might have a clean component in its smell - after all it was inspired by a soap of Sylvaine's childhood. The idea in fact conveys a sensation of freshness and purity, but one which doesn't forget the chic component behind it. It makes me think as if Sylvaine was inspired or motivated to bring some of her projects for Guerlain back and rethink them. I see that the delicate musky sweetness of creations like L'Instant Magic and Mon Precieux Nectar are here, but under a different harmony.

Dovana starts with a sparkling citrus impression, which already has a floral component on it. It moves foward something more bitter and almond like and i appreciate that here, different from L'Instant Magic, the almond blossom impression is neither so bitter or plastic in its aroma. It's delicate, elegant and gives plenty of space for a powdery and discreetly sweet iris accord. Dovana ends quite simple in a coherent way, with a musky creaminess punctuated by the delicate woody aroma of sandalwood. And altough it aroma is soft, it lasts in a very pleasant way, like a second skin. It's a good choice if you appreciate Delacourte work with Guerlain perfumes where the muscinade was a major star.