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24 de nov de 2016

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Chinchilla, Souvenir de Malmaison e Axis Mundi - English Review


If in the previously reviewed trio of 2016 launches we could see Dawn as a perfumer playing with textures and aroma to capture the freshness of summer, this second trio of releases is all about going into the glorious moments of the past to portray them with a richness of details that the perfumer does the best in this kind of creation. I confess that those compositions are my favorite ones from Dawn - they dare to use difficult, complex and heavy aromas that are not easily to be blended and harmonized, but they take you into golden places that are almost forgotten in the modern compositions.

From this trio of compositions, Chinchilla was a biggest surprise for me because i usually dislike animalic fragrances due their dirty aroma. However, the more i learn about animalic essences the more i see that they go through a whole spectrum of sensations and deepth in their scent nuances. Chinchilla seems to capture the furry and skin aspect of animalic aromas by portraing the rodents that gives it name, known for their thick and soft fur. The scent uses in an interesting way a beeswax absolute that is able to pass this dark, thick and soft animalic sensation at the same time it gives the aroma a slightly sweet nuance. The hyraceum complements the animalic aura in a more gentler way than civet - no scary breaths here. The more the scent develops on skin the more it goes into a soft and gentle chypre interpretation - something mossy but delicate musky at the same time. It's a beautiful and gentle "dirty" scent.

I'm a little bit divided about the darkness in Souvenir de Malmaison, which is very retro too but seems in some moments too dense in its oriental floral profile of the rose variety where it takes its inspiration. Trying to capture the more spicy aspect of the flower, Dawn construct a ambery oriental take on it which is not so far from a fragrance like Opium but seems to have an overdose of the dry spiciness of cloves. At the background you have a unsweetened labdanum base that seems to amplify the huskiness in the composition. However, this first moment softens a bit, lives space for more balmy and sweet resins, soft rose petals and a more gentle carnation accord - still spicy but less saturated.

Axis Mundi follow the trio in its vintage aura but may benefit from a contemporany appreciation for incense fragrances, so it sounds more current in my opinion. It's construct it's aura in a contemplative and deep incense and woody accord, which seems to use the massoia essential oil for a more pulp coconut texture in the woody incense aroma. It intrigues me that there is a  mysterious leathery balmy aroma that seems to sometimes wrap and other times mixes with the whiff of smoky incense and sweet woods. It really seems to take you into a serene contemplation voyage to the divine world of aromas.