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30 de out de 2016

Prada La Femme - English Review


Despite the aesthetic consistency and the sobriety in the design of its creations becoming part of Prada's  identity the brand is unfortunately not immune to conceptual nonsense that hang perfumery as a whole. The descriptions used by the brand to its new creations certainly lead to a level of expectation: the designer describes Prada Le Femme and L'Homme as a pair of fragrances with an identical vision, a confusion between male and female and a relationship without obvious definition. The floral aroma of La Femme promises to get rid of feminine cliches and puts a frangipani note in the perfume as something new and different.

Leaving all that aside, what really means the new female pillar of the brand? In my view, it is an exercise in expanding the olfactory silky iris of Prada signature in more floral and feminine territories - not exactly something that  goes against the clichés of contemporary feminine perfumes. I've never seen Prada as an innovative brand in terms of perfumes, there is a certain familiar classicism in irs creations that is perpetuated here.

This familiarity can fool ar principle in La Femme, giving the impression of a certain simplicity in what seems a floral aroma with honey nuances. However, I realize that La Femme works as a kind of Kaleidoscope of white flowers, trying to capture the most delicate aspects of them, something very difficult to work well in a perfume. From some angles, La Femme has the fruity tones of a frangipani, the most narcotic nuances of ylang, the green and waxy aspects of a tuberose, the orange flower sweetness that almost leads to a grape aroma. All those nuances appears interlaced in La Femme, starting at ylang, going to tuberose and orange and interspersing them with the scent of frangipani. There is a waxy and not sweet honey here that seems to reinforce the naturalness of white flowers in the composition.

In its base notes, we have a simple and effective combination on La Femme creating support for the floral accord. It is a mixture of discrete woody tones of vetiver, a controlled sweetness of vanilla and the use of the signature fragrance of the house, a mixture of iris silky and a little earthy and a very velvety and elegant musk.This combination shows to have an excellent performance, slowly appearing in its nuances on the skin. As much as La Femme reinforce clichés that promises to break, it is Prada creation that does what is known with a good complexity and reaching a certain softness and delicacy that is pretty hard to get in a white floral theme.