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17 de abr de 2016

Evocative Perfumes Imogen, Vanille Tonique e Nirvana - Fragrance Reviews


It is interesting to me that in an unplanned or unconscious way I have reserved for the end of my saga 3 Evocative perfumes that do not fit exactly in the dichotomy that I presented in my previous post about the brand (which you can see here). It's true that it would be possible to include both Imogen, Vanille Tonique and Nirvana in the second group, the more masculine/ unisex side that the resin focused creations offer. But this would be just a way of trying to fit something that shows a unique appeal. Each of the 3 creations evaluated here came with more specific memories and proposals of the perfumer and followed its own course and language. And what is most curious is that the unique aspect of each is due to me just the familiarity of aromas. Imogen, Vanille Tonique and Nirvana are tunes that I know, but played with an exceptional orchestration:

Imogen: It is interesting for me to read in Evocative blog that the inspiration for the creation of Imogen is due precisely Mark's task to study and create for learning the accords that form one of the greatest classics of all time, the beautiful oriental Shalimar. This shows how much sometime the inspiration for a perfume takes its own way, as if it were a living being of singular nature and still winning new contours when it is used and interpreted by those who wear it. I say this because although the studies have been made here in the classical oriental Shalimar accord, Imogen brings me to another classic oriental that also became a benchmark throughout its existence, the striking blockbuster Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Imogen aura in its rounded and harmonious aroma takes me to the classic Opium times, times that I have not lived but I was lucky to witness through the vintages versions I could find. There is something in the combination of resinous notes, patchouli, spices and sweet aromas in Opium that is narcotic and addictive in fact and part of this richness was lost in current versions. Imogen goes on very similar paths, running on the oil version an harmony and beauty that can be found in the extract version. It really is a great find for fans of this remarkable Oriental.
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Vanille Tonique:  the memories and associations that we have form naturally and involuntarily even that we try to control them. What Imogen should bring me in the memory I I see in Vanille Tonique, another of Mark's creations with an interesting history and a project that the perfumer tells it required a lot of work to arrive in the final version. Tonique came through the casual Mark find of an old bottle of a drug called Friar's Balsam, composed around the benzoin resin, tolu, storax and peruvian balms, myrrh and angelica. Vanille tonique is a creative exercise where Mark  imaginiation of the evolution of such balms over the years inspired the creation of an oriental that combine creaminess and sweetness of vanilla to the balsam's mixture. Vanille tonique is not your sugary and foody vanilla but something that reflects the darker, mysterious and enveloping side of its beans, which blends perfectly with the balmy, sweet and smoky aura that are built around. Its aroma makes me think about how deeper  and warmer Shalimar would be if remove the focus the citrus and and dirty part and increase the volume of resins, keeping in a warm, rich and a little gourmand tonality.

Nirvana:  in Nirvana I see that Marx wanted to achieve the state of perfection and spiritual purity that true agarwood is able to provide. Although we have witnessed a constant wave of releases using conceptually this resin, few care to build a lighting path provided between the complex aspects of resin, ranging from balsamic and sweet through the floral and even going to Animalic and fecal. By seeking to reflect and build an harmony using real agarwood, Mark managed to balance the most complicated aspect and give a pleasant nuance to it. I notice the smoky, oily and animalic aroma of castoreum perfectly complementing the more animalic side of agarwood while a moderate use of a synthetic molecule called beta damascone gives a jelly aroma of roses and honey that perfectly suggests the most floral side of harmony without going into a common direction. At the base, Nirvana wraps agarwood in a serene and creamy sandalwood, another wood with a very strong spiritual symbolism, and complete the scenario with musks suggesting distantly aspects of incense that match the olfactory profile built. Nirvana is a very personal, rich and luxurious reflection of a theme that ended up being trivialized without being explored to its fullest.