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3 de abr de 2016

Evocative Perfumes Fleur de Magnolia, Jasmin Tabac, Siberian Fir, Olibanum, Sacred Spaces - Fragrance Reviews

A perfumer does not differ much from a book writer, musician or painter when he/she turns in his/her work first to express himself/herself than to reflect a possible public. Not always such artists create a workset of easy to be digested or understood, however there is always a common thread that makes you able to see a clear vision of the world and a way to express themselves that want to say something. It is a good indication finding this on a brand and I see that in indies brands like Evocative scents it is easier to be encountered.

In the case of Mark, there is a certain dichotomy between its perfumes; some of them aim the full expression of the different ways that flowers can exhale their aroma, thus creating an aura sometimes more feminine and sensual; in a second part, there is a full control and focus on mystery, wealth and serenity of resins, herbs and woods, something we could identify with more masculine or unisex maybe. And analyzing each scent shows better this dualistic way of expressing:

Jasmin Tabac:  from the florals created by Mark certainly Jasmine Tabac is what shows to be less minimalist and more expansive, making a discreet bridge into the more resinous and male part of his creations universe. There is a kind of balance for me between tobacco and jasmine, and that may not be as noticeable right away since the floral aroma dominates  the opening. We are presencing  a jasmine sambac accord, fruity, slightly powdery,  sweet and citrus, which is shown with small facets. Tobacco appears enveloping it, giving a balmy, spicy, and a little bit ambery veil. In the drydown the smoky side appears, wrapped in the softness of molecules that create a foundation that focuses primarily on ambregris and musk. You can see at a glance the between jasmine and tobacco a rose which is velvety, delicate and slightly fruity.

Fleur de Magnolia: the magnolia is a flower that has usually been treated with an emphasis on its most citrus and herbal side, but here Mark prefers to give you a more conceptual and abstract impression, emphasizing the carnal and white floral side For this, the composition incorporates a floral and a little bitter duo of orange blossom and its leaves and a narcotic jasmine, which shows less its fruity side and more its glossy white floral aspect. Fleur de Magnolia gradually turns into a second skin of white and elegant floral impression, ending in a similar musk accord found in Aquarelle and Evelyn's Rose. In this case we seem to be accessing the perfumer's memory of an orchard of white flowers, mixing their smells prevailing in the air.

Siberian Fir: I would say that of all the perfumes tested so far Siberian Fir is what seems to target a very specific audience with its predominance of fir aroma in the composition. Its smell seems stark, mysterious, like a journey in a coniferous forest in broad daylight. We are not in a hushed moment, then it is interesting to note the contrast between the driest  pine-y like smell over the mentholated and discreetly fruity nuances. In the evolution the drydown smells like a kind of niche in this forest, where the trees give way to an aromatic shrubs carpet that leads the smell of wood, grass and sweet and soft resin.

Olibanum: in a certain way, Olibanum is related to Siberian fir with its mysterious  and even austere aura. We are facing a multi-dimensional representation of one of the earliest used of the resins in the history of mankind. The essential oil of frankincense is interesting because it goes in 3 direction: something citrus and bright, which refers to lemon, a slight and a little sweet incense nuance and finally a heavier, herbal, almost burnt part, which is not exactly easy to be "digested" when you smell the essential oil. Mark works with different kinds of frankincense mainly favoring the bright, citrus and smoky sude. It is contextualized with dry spicy touches of juniper and a comfortable woody aspect base, slightly earthy, of subtly powdery and leather-fruity nuances -  which seems to be due the use of synthetic materials for the creation of a very well done iris accord.

Sacred Spaces: t is relatively easy to understand the intent and olfactory memory of serenity and meditative contemplation captured by Mark in Sacred Spaces. At the same time, the way sandalwood, myrrh, musks and other woody and incense notes and are worked up in it bring me a very personal memory, the smell of a new nubuck leather shoe. It is interesting how the scent of myrrh diluted and combined with other essences can pass the softness and velvet aroma that this kind of shoe smells once you take it out of the box for the first time. It is a soft, elegant and very comfortable smell to be felt during the day.

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