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27 de mar de 2016

Olfactive Studio Still Life, Still Life in Rio, AutoPortrait and Selfie - Reviews

The idea that Céline Verleure had when in 2011 she founded  Olfactive Studio was simple, direct and it surprises me that it has not been done before. Céline proposes a connection of  two arts that at first may not seem related to each other but have much in common: photography and perfumery. Both capture the poetic form and technique which the artist's eye perceives in a flash of a moment so specific that ends up winning life and meaning.

The role of Céline here ends up being a kind of artistic director that bridges the gap between perfumers and photographers responsible for capturing the thematic proposals, which mostly revolve around elements of photography universe. I see the perfumes of Olfactive Studio as a more commercial and refined direction, perhaps concerned in communicating in a directly, recognizable and accessible way what was imagined, allowing, I think, that even one with a limited baggage of knowledge in aromas can enjoy the compositions. There is signature aroma going throughout much of the collection, and showing in various ways within each thematic proposal:

Still Life: one of the first members of the collection, Still Life is one that leaves the portrayed subject open and abstract, leaving the elements of the world of photography for capturing a festive and sparkling moment. It is certainly one of the most pleasant scents of the line, which in its aroma capture the festivities with a citrus and intense explosion that conveys the smell of sweet tangerines, and juicy lemons. At the background you can see an allusion to the sweet and boozy aroma of rum with the spicy elements used more discreetly. On the basis of still life the olfactory signature of the brand is revealed, something velvety, slightly plastic and shiny, a combination of what looks like musks, iso e super and ambroxan. It is something abstract and simple, nice, but less intense than the output burst of life.

Still Life in Rio:  I was skeptical when I recently heard about the launch of this perfume, a thematic variation of Still Life that brings the party to Rio de Janeiro. The few scents inspired in Brazil generally bother me because the do not run away from a citrus, fresh fruity, and banal caricature of my country. But i  gave on that Still Life in Rio even that doesn't propose anything innovative in inspiration in my country is very well executed and has a delicious and complex boozy aroma. In parts it brings me to one of our famous drinks, caipirinha, bringing from still life the lemon aroma and giving you a drier alcoholic  impression surrounded by a spicy ginger freshness and refreshing herbal tone of mint. The most interesting part is that this party has more than one drink and along with the caipirinha i smell a lactonic and sweet aroma that brings me smell of pina colada - a coconut with condensed milk, rum and pineapple rings at decoration. Still Life Rio holds that celebration atmosphere for a long time, taking more to reach the velvety and intimate basis.

AutoPortrait: more related to the photography world than Still Life and Still Life in Rio, in Autoportrait we have the olfactory representation of the Self Portrait, a form of photography that tries to capture something deeper and more meaningful while going on a more superficial way. Perhaps the theme that reflects the individual and their own experiences and perceptions have in Autoportrait a less defined aroma, which uses in a very intense way the nuances of cedar, iso E super, ambroxan and ambery/woody materials. In general, the composition reminds me in the style the velvety and minimalist smell of the classic Cartier Declaration, revisited to include green tones, moss and a slight hint of pepper.

Selfie: a kind of more contemporany in visual and hedonistic self portatrait, in Selfie i expected a perfumer more generic and with an instant gratification, perhaps a fresh and aquatic scent as the perfume color seemed to suggest me. To my surprise, selfie is perhaps the most challenging of the first quartet of brand fragrances tested. Not seeking perfection and playing with the composition, in selfie we have an interesting combination of incense, smoky and sweet resin, a drier aroma and classic labdanum. To this very unique and interesting opening you get an aroma that reminds you both the smell of freshly crushed green herbs and the scent of a mysterious syrup which is sweet and bittersweet at the same time, something with hints of wild berries and spices. The retraction of the chaotic and fast time we live selfie shows quickly all its nuances, resulting in an exotic cacophony of creative and modern elements.