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28 de mar de 2016

Olfactive Studio Chambre Noire, Lumiere Blanche, Ombre Indigo, Flash Back, Panorama - Fragrance Reviews



I see that in the scenario of independent and niche frangrace is possible to identify two very obvious behaviors. One of them is intended to invest in the conceptual aspect of the fragrance, the creations that never see the light of day in most commercial massified brands because they do not sell thousands of units. The other seems to seek a type of consumer who is tired of the security and predictability of commercial  mass perfumery but do not want something very avant-garde and innovative, just something more luxurious, complex and interesting.

Between these two worlds or poles seems to transit the photographic concepts transformed into perfumes of the Olfactive Studio brand. If this were an exhibition I would say that Céline Verleure as a kind of curator took care to create a kind of scale of complexity, with scents ranging from instantly gratifying, easy to digest and somewhat predictable to the most risky and difficult concepts. It certainly is for me a vision of a businesswoman who wants to fine balance the artistic and commercial aspect of her brand. I conclude my journey through the scents of the brand summarizing my impressions of the 5 remaining elements of the collection.

Chambre Noire: the first time I felt a year ago the scent of Chambre Noire did not give it the proper value that I give today. It is certainly one of the best from the brand if not its masterpiece. I find it interesting how the concept of darkroom photography is explored in a composition that creates a dense base of incense, amber, patchouli and vanilla to reflect the fruity sweetness of an accord of jasmine, violet and plum. It is a warm aroma, steaming, thick and sweet and fruity at the same time, sparkling, a little bit floral. It is as if its composition, as well as its photo, was among a classical world and modern world and the interpretation just depends on the angle from which it is observed.

Lumiere Blanche: what I observe and mentioned in the first paragraph of my text it can be clearly seen in the contrast between the perfume Chambre Noire and Lumiere Blanche. While Chambre is the most conceptual and risky side, Lumiere Blanche certainly flirts with a commercial chic fragrance and easy to please. Some concepts have to bring certain embedded impressions and the question of brightness and white is one of them. It is very rare to see a scent that does not use citrus, sparkling notes and or musks for achieve it and in fact Lumiere don't escape that - its scent is a soft cocktail of clean white musks blended with the creaminess of sandalwood and the minerals velvelt rose nuances of  the synthetic material cashmeran. However, the citrus part is left out to include a fresh and yet spicy cardamom,  menthol touches of star anise and a spicy cinnamon. As SelfPortrait, Lumiere Blanche sounds to me a little more structural, quickly showing the end of the elements of the composition and with an initial dynamic that evolves very fast.

Ombre Indigo: let us return to the conceptual and risky side of the brand with Ombre Indigo, who also works a juxtaposition of darkness and luminosity in its aroma and that seems to me a kind of modern interpretation of scents that have seen play the role of agarwood in various commercial compositions , be they niche or more luxurious/ selective perfumery. Instead of using the aroma of nargamota with musks, pink, animalic notes and saffron to give an air of "Oud perfume", the plant has its more smoky and dry side contrasted with a vetiver fragrance which shows both woody and sweet side and that also seems embedded in resin. I see that the citrus notes in the output are used to bring to highlight the more citrus side vetiver aroma has, making the bright role to  the darker side of the composition.

Flash Back: although within the Olfactive Studio collection there is no scent I have hated or disliked, Flash Back is the least I like or that for me could explore the concept in a better way. I don't  like the picture either, which in its distortion does not make me think of the past, and am not a big fan of perfume, which lacks a clear link to classic perfumes or any age of perfumery in particular and it seems to favor the more woody and musky base over the sorrel and fruity rhubarb, grapefruit and orange output. It is a concept that in my opinion could be reworked from scratch - both in photography as the scent itself.

Panorama: I put Panorama with Ombre Indigo among the masterpieces of the brand and among the compositions that can unite in perfect harmony concept, photography and aroma. It is in perfumes as Panorama and Ombre Indigo that the true potential of Céline brand is revealed. As the beautiful photography, Panorama captures a broad view, complex and yet harmonious life in a sort of garden surrounding a modern architectural construction. The green aroma in Panorama travels between the lactone, fruity and herbal smell of fig leaves, the bitter ink and freshly cut grass of galbanum, the humid and aquatic nuances of violet leaf and citrus aromas that surround the idea, revolving around something that refers to lemon and fill well the panoramic green idea which is captured. The basis here is used more as a support and attachment to the theme that develops in the first minutes on the skin and that lasts a long time on the skin.

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