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29 de mar de 2016

Evocative Perfumes Evelyn's Rose and Aquarelle - Fragrance Reviews


I see that the perfumery of our present moment is both a blessing and a curse. The curse's side is mainly due to the increasingly difficulty to test and separate the interesting and well designed creations from  a sea of ​​unfinished copies and/or perfmes designed in a hurry. The blessing, however, is due to the shorter distances between the different creations around the world, bringing you hope and enthusiasm to deal with the sameness of many releases. The existence of affordable shipping and social networks that connect people with common interests allowed me to interact with Mark Evans and so have the chance to know the work of an independent perfumer from Australia. And so I found myself diving into the world of Evocative Scents.

The choice of name, the presentation and the themes make me think that Mark is a fan of an approach which is direct and elegant at the same time. The focus is on perfumes, its memories, the poetry than a simple well done aroma can have from the moment it begins to exhale on the skin and fills our memories, bringing associations in memory or creating new ones.

I know that the simplicity that Mark captured in both Evelyn's Rose as Aquarelle is difficult to achieve and it is something you just happens to be aware when you risk to study more about the composition of a perfume process. It is difficult to create a simple theme without it seeming too flat or unfinished on its evolution on skin. This becomes even more difficult when working with non-alcoholic media, where the evaporation of aromatic chemicals end up acquiring a slower dynamic in relation to the alcoholic one. Finally, creating delicate compositions as Evelyn's Rose or Aquarelle and making them last on the skin is really a technical triumph that only with experience you get (Or beginner's luck, which is not the case here).

Evelyn's Rose  bring back immediately to my mind the smell of Rose de Mai, a type of rose that I like very much but at the same time it seems to me difficult to work in a perfume due some more green nuances and antiseptic aspect which gives the a creation dissonant. Mark was able to create an archetype of a Rose which reminds me of this variety without that dissonant part  (the inspiration in the perfume is a variety of rose that takes its name in honor of  the traditional Crabtree & Evelyn company). You can see the green aspect, a little bitter and herbal and that reminds you of citronella, though it is softened by peach fruity nuances. They lead to a velvety rose, as if it had been recently harvested or as its aroma was carried by the wind breeze. The aroma of this delicate rose is preserved by a musk base that somehow also has nuances of roses and so helps to endure the sense of smell.

Aquarelle is very true to its name and as Evelyn's Rose shows that in its delicate aroma. The watercolored impression we have here is a floral bouquet that instead of showing the most carnal aspect and intense of white flowers reveals its gentleness and serenity. For me, Aquerelle revolves around citrus and sparkling touches, a slightly sweet, green and aromatic accord of freesias and muguets. As time goes by, I see the white floral side mentioned, however worked in a citrus, herbal and aldehydic direction, forming the shape of linden flowers. The base functions similarly to the one used in Evelyn's Rose, but with an ambery touch and without the rose nuances. And its aroma makes me think of vacation, of days of tranquility in times where people enjoy life without doing anything in particular.

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