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10 de fev de 2016

Santi Burgas LÔROSE and LÔANT - Fragrance Reviews


Whenever I see a collection of scents that can be combined with each other, a concern comes immediately to my mind: "will the fragrances be really good to be used alone?" Some creations, especially Jo Malone, seem little worked and simple and it's like a brand trying to make you spend buying various perfumes so that they form something more complex and lasting.

If I had those concerns with Santi Burgas perfumes, after the second day of testing I can see that is not the case. Santiago gives me the impression that he has considered the concept as a whole and its parts. Each fragrance is enough  in itself, even with the emphasis at certain times of the composition. And even with this approache i realize that they do not behave exactly the same way on the skin.

It is as if the performer had thought at different levels of depth in their messages. There is a hierarchy to me in the top messages, something that only I saw today when using LÔROSE on skin. LÔBITT form the top of this hierarchy, consisting of volatile and citrus elements. LÔJAZZ is the intermediate member, having a greater support of ionones and lasting longer due to  the rain of white flowers. And LÔROSE is the deepest part among the three members.

The name is accurate and here we are facing a composition passing a message of nobility and luxury of the queen of flowers, the rose. LÔROSE makes me think of Arabs roses, which are often combined with agarwood and saffron in many modern perfumes. Roses are rich in aroma, fruity, with a slightly menthol part and perhaps with enough emphasis on liquor aspect. You may notice the smell of geranium intensifying the rose fragrance and giving a greener aspect, a quote almost Fougere to the good oriental scent composition. Patchouli blends perfectly with the rose and geranium, giving an appearance of dark chocolate and a light  earth touch. There is some material on the background that also makes me think of leather and a second type of rose that appears only after a few hours on the skin, a more powdery one, blending with the fruity smell of jasmine. Interestingly LÔROSE seems to have a contact points with LÔJAZZ smell, which in turn relates to the LÔBITT neroli aroma.

Leaving the members of the initial layer of communication, LÔANT is the focal point of the collection, the perfume that binds to both the top layer as the deepest layer of the system proposed by Santiago. And considering the developed scent, I'd say LÔANT works well as an aroma fixing and enhancing other perfumes, certainly others also outside of the brand perfumes. Its smell to me is dominated by the glossy, soft and slightly woody's ambroxan aroma. It is wrapped in soft musks and light spicy hints of nutmeg, but the star of the composition here is ambroxan. This gives LÔANT an aura that alone sounds very bright, abstract and light, but with power to last the entire day alone. It's a very pleasant smell, easy and it works perfectly as a liaison. I believe that one of the members of the collection that will benefit more from their fastness properties is LÔBITT - combination that I intend to test at the end of my week reviews.