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6 de fev de 2016

House of Matriarch Black No 1, Devotion and Forbidden - Fragrance Reviews


Perhaps it is easy to take for granted that building a harmonious scent is less complicated than creating something conceptual, controversial and full of contrasts. However, in practice I realize by studying on the subject that is just the opposite, and so I see a great value in the compositions of the House of Matriarch. You need a good knowledge, intuition and creativity in developing a concept that involves multiple essences of natural origin (and if you ever smelled some natural materials alone you can perceive more clearly when a composition is synthetic or not). Christi demonstrates mastering this perfectly, but with a business acumen always clear. With the three I analyze today at the end of my saga I confirm my impression that the perfumer clearly keeps one foot in quality, mystery and classicism handmade perfume but with a focus on concern for creating fragrances that are pleasing and selling. And the end result is very satisfactory.
Black No 1: It is the best or at least is among the best of the brand. Elected by some as the most sexy perfume, it is easy to see why. Despite the composition being a classic leather style, a birch aroma that brings the smell of leather jacket, the proportions of the ingredients used that compose it guarantee you a very pleasant velvety touch. Black No 1 opens with a drier herbal smell, woody, with prominence in the pine scent of fir and pine tree itself. It is something that gives a forest smell to Black No 1, but does not dominate it. The type of agarwood used here creates a resinous smell, slightly sweet and incensed that blends perfectly with soft smell of leather jacket that develops along with it. There is a creamy woody aroma that refers to sandalwood and also that complements beautifully the final result.
Devotion: I could tell that Devotion is the purest and clearest in the identity of the House of Matriarch and predilection Christi for compositions with incense. At first Devotion did not impress me with its combination of classical incense - the  dry woody, smoky scent with slight  menthol and lemon nuances. But as it evolves a resinous smell and slightly fruity myrrh assumes the center of the composition and makes it more distinct and yet very classic. You can see a classic oriental base, a little sweet and amber one giving nuances to the myrrh, the main star of the composition in my opinion.

Forbidden: there are several commercial and niche perfumes that explore the scent of tuberose as an important part or center of their compositions, but there are few as Forbidden to just give focus to the most obvious aspect of the tuberose absolute, a very vegeta, green and fresh smell that to me makes tuberose the most different white flower among the other white flowers. In Forbidden there are other herbs and leaves making this green and exotic side even more evident. As part of the olfactory signature of the house you can see a blend of woods, spices and resins creating a smoky tone, exotic and tending to the Arab style of composition. The pair oud and tuberose is something unexplored yet and that turns out to be a double interest in the composition, since the oud provides a complex basis and highlights the more exotic aspects of tuberose.

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