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25 de jan de 2016

La Via Del Profumo Tabac, Gipsy Queen, Frutti Paradisi e Tasneem - Reviews



Entering the perfume universe of La Via del Profumo is almost like opening a sort of olfactory portal to another dimension. In it, we are in a place where marketing doesn't matter, where there is no economy in the quality of the material used and where emotions are not merely manipulated, but true. As simple as Dominique Durbrana formulas may seem they carry a harmony that only those who have a deep knowledge can achieve. Standing before his creations is a huge opportunity to see what good essential and absolute oils can do when well used. This applies to the four perfume evaluated today:

Tabac: It is one of the deepest perfumes in basenotes between the existing ones in the collection. Its aroma reflects a type of tobacco-smoke smell, dry, spicy, almost salty. Its tobacco has a black aura and a energy at the same time calm and sensual. The use of vanilla and tonka here seems more to soften the idea but without giving a sweet aroma. I find it interesting its scent develop for a more classic chypre base, somewhere between woody patchouli and vetiver and an earthy  and oak moss tone.

Tasneem: is an ode to the beautiful scent of ylang-ylang, which the name means flower of flowers. The ylang used here is one of the fractions of the essential oil   which maintains a rich aroma and a softness in the ylang aspects. You can see a velvety floral scent, with slightly fruity nuances, mixed at the background with a jasmine of high quality. Tasneem has some herbal touches at certain times, but the chic and delicate floral is predominant. You also detect traces of vanilla, almonds, warm woods and resins. The olfactory texture of tasneem for me is the floral equivalent of a very fluffy and soft towel.

Frutti Paradisi: one of the biggest challenges within the 100% natural fragrance is building an aroma which is able to pass a fruity idea without relying on citrus fruits. There are few cases where the extraction of essential oil by existing methods produce fruits absolutes with a satisfactory result. Frutti Paradisi gets around this by using the fruity nuances of osmanthus, which reminds you a  juicy peach aroma. This is mixed  with the burnt smell of blackcurrant and the ylang fruity that refers to banana. The Osmanthus ends up creating a background for this fruity nuances harmony with a slightly animalic, oily and leather aspect. It is a fruity aroma that lingers with a musky and silky form on the skin.

Gispy Queen: It is one of the most dramatic, complex, dynamic and contradictory  of Durbano compositions, reflecting well the character that was passed for him create its aroma, the gypsy Carmen of the Opera with the same name. Gipsy Queen has the intensity and remarkable sensuality of a floral chypre from 80s, heavily depending on tpatchouli, rose and white flowers such as tuberose strengthening voluptuous nuances of the composition. But its roses show sometimes a more delicate and fragile side and as its scent evolve on the skin there is something more serene, closed and mysterious, a chypre woody aroma that beckons with a warm and inviting animalic side.

3 comentários:

Birdie disse...

*sigh* You make me want YET more perfume, H! Not fair! :-)

richpot disse...

Viva La Via Del Profumo!

Henrique/Rick disse...

It's always fair to want more perfume Birdie :)

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