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23 de jan de 2016

La Via Del Profumo Milano Caffé, Chilum, Feromone Homme e Maya - Reviews


In the world of perfumery, it is not always the most beautiful bottle and the dearest name that contains the most precious and rich aroma. Spread around the world there are gems to be discovered, perfumes and brands of which few are talking about and that you end up stumbling unwittingly into a forum or fragrances database. My experience with La Via del Profumo was just by chance a few years ago. And every time I go back to use some of the perfumes from this Italian brand they surprise me just like the first time.

The type of perfume that Dominique Durbrana creates is one of the hardest it has in the world of perfumery: 100% natural fragrances. I can list three factors that explain this difficulty. The first is the initial strangeness we have, considering that for cost optimization issues and standardization of production much of the commercial perfumery and even niche is synthetic. Second, a natural scent at first frightens a nose not prepared for the intensity of feeling that it can bring. Finally, composing natural creations lasting on the skin and on top of guaranteing stability and wealth of the absolute and essential oils used is not an easy task. That an expert like Dominique is able to do this and still provide them for a fair price is something you rarely see in perfumery. And so it is worth investigating as a series of reviews that i'm doing right now.


Milano Caffé: I would highlight that from the compositions provided by La Via del Profumo this is one of the most friendly to the male audience, and one that pleases  right away. The idea of capturing the blend of Italian culture with Arabi one in thematic of a coffee shop produces an aroma that combines the dry, pungent and roasted side of coffee with the scent of more dried spices, the aroma of resin, a light aspect of vanilla, the creaminess of chocolate and a fine woody scent of vetiver. This is a perfume that plays with textures of dark and creamy, sweet and dry, black shiny and warm woody. It is wonderful.

Chilum: Chillum is an interesting example of how to keep simplicity in formulating a composition without compromising harmony and richness in aroma. This is possible when you combine essences complex and rich in nuances and in this case we have the use of Indian sandalwood, ginger and tobacco, with the name referring to a kind of Indian pipe. The Indian sandalwood used in this composition is one of the noblest ones and something you hardly find at a perfume. This gives the composition a unique woody texture, something dry, slightly salty, with hints of incense and lactonic tones. Ginger gives a fresh and spicy air in the opening while the tobacco absolute contributes to more smoky and dark aspect of the idea. It is a noble, harmonious perfume,

Feromone Homme -  the name choosen here was due the creation of a composition using animals essences like castoreum and ambergris as a main part. The two are known in the animal kingdom for having roles in the reproduction of the species and are scents that have fallen into disuse in perfumery, both by ethical issue as the price. Those used here are obtained so as not to harm the animal (the sperm whale and beaver) and are complemented by the woody and sober profile of sandalwood and oak moss. It is one of the compositions that initially scares you  - the castoréum aroma contributes with something smoky, black and inky and the ambergris gives a smell verging on fecal. After the impactful start, you can see the salty tone of the second and the leathery aroma of the first mixing with the dry scent of sandalwood, a variety that reminds me of cedar, and the earthy smell of moss. Pheromone scent ends with a very comfortable second skin and retaining the  leather, musk and wood nuances.

Maya: known by the brand as a "chocolate bath," Maya is an ode to cocoa and vanilla essences but not a sweet and cloying gourmand scent. Its composition reminds me of the thick smell of a creamy dark chocolate cup and i also a smell cloves, cinnamon, honey and tabacco. The smell is sweet, spicy, something resembling smoke, hot tea and chocolate. Somehow follows a dynamic that sometimes refers to Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille on the skin, though less heavy in honey and softer at the end of evolution.

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