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28 de jan de 2016

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Giverny in Bloom Collection - English Review



Perfumery is not only a multi-sensory or multi conceptual art when treated that way. It also integrates seamlessly with other arts and makes the experience even more rewarding. Thus, the collaboration between the artist and perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and and Denver Art Museum in the  Giverny in Bloom exposition is the perfect collaboration and a fine example of this possibility.

One of the recurring themes in Impressionist painting and especially in Monet's painting is the capture of beautiful landscapes of gardens full of life. With Giverny in Bloom exposition, the Denver Art Museum proposed to the spectator an immersion in the sensations of these gardens that inspired many beautiful paintings by a special selection of works related to the topic and creating a room with several large photographic panels to transmit the sense of immersion in the gardens that inspired Monet. And for that experience to be more realistic, they have partnered with Dawn to create a collection of perfumes that reflect such a scenario.

The four  scents proposed by Dawn not only has a classic, natural and rich sense but they are also able to capture the Impressionist concern more related to abstraction, the registration of the impression conveyed. We are not facing a realistic garden, although it is possible to see the elements of it in each scent, but a poetry-shaped scent that captures the abstract nuances of the mixture of aromatic richness of life in an environment like this. Perfumes are clearly integrated and wandering through the foliage of the registration to aroma of flowers and maybe the sensation of the air as well. And so it is worth assessing them as a whole, as I will do below:

Le Jardin Vert: It is one of my favorite of the set representing the esposition. It gives the first impression of the garden, an aroma that brings the scent of plants, the scent of the woods in the air, some compounds exuding from the saps and the smell of the earth. I enjoy the newly cut grass aroma of galbanum, the earthy and slightly salty moss smell, woody and herbaceous scent of vetiver and the subtle and discreet green floral touches. They are the element that connects the garden to the next stage of perception, the flowers of the garden.

La Danse des Bleus et Violettes: beyond the division between different aromatic elements of the garden, I see that there is a theme that connects the aromas feeling to certain colors.In La Danse, we have the use of blue and purple flowers like violets, lilac, iris and heliotrope to convey an aerial floral idea, metallic and maybe a little melancholy and slightly watery. The impression I have is that we are in the garden early in the morning and the flowers have not yet begun to spread intensively its smell. i detect hints of sweet aroma of violets, almond tones of heliotrope, gently and a little bit earthy and watery smell if iris and a lilac scent, which gives me a sense of scented wax and a metallic and cold tone. The scent seems to have a very tranpsarent base of musk and is all the brightest and most delicate on skin from the set.

L'Opera des Rouges et des Roses: this is to me the most vivid, intense and remarkable part of the garden collection and is clearly associated with the color red. L'opera des Rouges et des Roses passes a delicious abstraction of hot, liqueur, spicy and striking smell resulting from the combination of roses, peonies, geraniums and and cloves. Altough the  roses have a slightly fruity tone, it is their side that reminds you of  alcoholic beverages which is suggested more clearly here. Carnation helps contributing with a retro and spicy powdery touch, but in a very harmonic way. The base features a symphony of more oriental and woody elements that pass me maybe the sensation of witnessing the garden now at the going down of the sun.

Giverny in Bloom: this is the scent that shows the full color of all garden elements, as if they were his previous zooms at different times of the day. The grassy part ends up being an abundant and predominant part in this creation, which makes me connect it easily to Le Jardin Vert. Here, we see the cut grass smell and earthy aroma and resin blending with the symphony of aromas of rose, white  purple and blue flowers portrayed. The floral theme of it is even more abstract than the previous ones, so one realize parts of rose, jasmine, peony, iris and violet scents mixing the color green and the woody and chypre composition. It's a wonderful summary that leads us to understand all the poetry of aromas that so inspired Monet in his wonderful works.

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