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29 de jan de 2016

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Brilliant Collection - Fragrance Reviews


There are many parallels that can be made between the world of perfumes and jewels. It's possible to affirm that in both the most precious materials when polished display their best and we are fascinated by the aesthetic beauty and pleasant feeling that they cause in us. We seek the perfect shine of the stones and the harmony of aromas and even though we know and enjoy in both worlds all the richness of levels  certainly the wealthiest fascinates us.

I see that the exposition by the Denver Art Museum just looking to show us the art from the nature and polished in the hands of excellent professionals of Cartier jewelry, highlighting how its jewels were present in the lives of important people throughout the 20th century and how they have made rather precious stones come to life in a synesthesia with beautiful compositions made by Dawn. In each of them, I see a clear concern in using the abstraction of scents to give the a portray of stone's souls  and their colors. Again I dedicate myself to explore the collection as a whole and understand its elements.

Jacinthe de Saphir: inspired by one of the most impressive gems from Cartier, Blue Sapphire of the Queen of Romania, Dawn uses the noble, metallic and deep aspect of hyacinth flower to portray the noblest and cold gemstone. Although the composition having a distinctly blue due inspiration to flower, there is a green chypre and herbaceous context that is shown by the scent of galbanum and secondary nuance of Narcisus in the composition. Traces of orange blossom gives a different shine, warmer and sweet, balancing the floral metallic tone of hyacinth.


Déco Diamonds: Diamonds are one of the gems that most convey the feeling of a classic luxury and in a universal form because of its intense and transparent / silver sheen. Dawn was inspired by the era of Jazz and Art Deco to form a floral aldehydic that just uses the glare of aldehydes and the wealth of a multifaceted white floral boquet to convey the preciousness of the stone. The style usually makes me think of Chanel No 5, a game of contrasts between a clean sophisticated feel and a sensual richness of white flowers. The biggest difference is the absence of powdery tones, which gives more emphasis to white flowers. The base features woody contours with slightly animalic musks touches and well conveys the retro, classic and timeless sophistication of diamonds.

Rubis Rosé: again I find myself in love with a perfume of Dawn which uses the queen of flowers, the rose, to pass here the exciting and vibrant shade of rubies. The feeling is further enhanced by using Elizabeth Arden and her necklace of Cartier rubies as part of the inspiration. The roses are perfect to convey the intense and romantic red and there is an abstract and multifaceted bouquet of them here. Berries tones mix with the smell through half powdery liqueur and half green roses, which are wrapped in a chypre base of warm resinous tones. Rubis rosé brings me to a mythical and iconic scent discontinued, the edp concentration of Shiseido Nombre Noire.

Fumée d'Or: if in Giverny in Bloom collection we have a scent that unifies the other scents on a theme, with Fumée d'Or Dawn creates an abstraction for the environment of a goldsmith where precious stones are polished. Fumée d'Or has a smoky, hot smell, an aroma that brings the woods, human skin, smell boilers, straw. There is something in their woody aroma, slightly smoky and Animalic / resin passing a very masculine and sober feeling. And despite working alone, Fumée d'Or favors intentionally base notes to function as an alloy of noble metals to the other perfumes, serving as a framework to highlight the aromas that recall the precious stones.

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