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17 de jan de 2016

Cartier Declaration D'un Soir And Declaration d'Un Soir Intense - Fragrance Reviews


One of the riskiest perfumery segments when we put the focus towards  the male audience is the floral scent family. There are few existing floral perfumes, those who are released do not usually sell well due the more conservative masculine profile, which associates this type of fragrance to women. So when launching Déclaration d'un Soir is possible to say that Cartier ran some risks in shaping the night version of their success in such note.

However, I see it the choice of rose as a calculated risk since it being a flower of a more universal appeal  and able to be worked in different ways because of the large synthetic options available to the perfumer. Declaration d'un Soir is an independent part of the traditional idea where the perfumer Mathilde just keeps the light velvety dynamic but under another focus. This time, we see cashmeran playing the role of iso and super and giving a velvety and slightly mineral, damp smell, which for some may remind a wet concrete aroma. The cashmeran alone has a floral nuance and it is utilized in the abstract accord of a rose that has spicy, boozy and slightly fruity contours. One can see at the background light touches of patchouli giving a subtle woody tonality to the idea.

Interestingly Déclaration d'un Soir comes to have the contours of a modern chypre although not classed as a such. Floral + patchouli + musk dynamic is explored here without having the presence of the parties more citrus and sweet. And it works very well in a perfume that does not lose the elegance nor the volume of its scent throughout its evolution.




A proof to me that the original version was successful among the male audience is the existence of a more intense version of Déclaration d'un Soir. I believe that part of the base consisting primarily of musks and cashmeran should not be felt so clearly apparent for some men, giving the impression that the scent does not last. But the intense version goes beyond working around this aspect, it gives more richness and body to the aroma of the  roses in the original.

My impression is that I stand before a modern chypre only confirms in this version. In fact, it deepens in a curious way, a floral eighties chypre. It is as if Mahilde Laurent had revisited one of those floral with super charged fluorescent rose and found a way to keep that shine in the aroma without the weight. Thus, the Intense still retains the fruity and boozy nuances but reveals this brighter and more unusual side of the rose. It is added up to it a more obvious patchouli, drier spices and to the background a subtle dose of iris that sometimes seems more powdery and sometimes gives a slight earthy and leathery touch to the background. You can still smell the cashmeran and musks, though they leave room for the rose and patchouli dynamic set the aura of the composition.

Despite being an intense version, this keeps the less saturated feel, I believe, to track the more minimalist DNA of the line. This makes it an interesting and not cloying scent in its nuances. And certainly due to modern chypre style is a great scent to be shared (as well as the regular version).

2 comentários:

Henrique/Rick disse...

Que eu me lembro no Egoiste, Chariol Royal Platinum e no Davidoff Zino. A maioria dos masculinos que usa rosa acaba usando mais o aspecto de gerânio dela para dar nuances fougeres, mas esses 3 aí tem o aroma que lembra mais a flor mesmo.

Rafael Oxn. disse...

nossa que beleza as notas desse Charriol Royal Platinum heim? ... tenho que conhecer esse trem hahaha

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