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17 de dez de 2015

Olibere - Balinesque, Escapade a Byzance, Paradis Lontains, Midnight Spirit e Il Mio Segreto - Fragrance Reviews


I see that the path chosen by Marjorie Olibere to turn her passion into a business could not be more natural and difficult than that presented in Olibere Parfums. Marjorie, despite being born in an almost idyllic setting, surrounded by scents, had her life and career defined by the visual aspect and the global exploration and thus she tries to transpose in her perfumes the link between the aesthetics of the film to freedom of flavors ib a natural way. This is ironically a limiting way, since one of the main problems of commercial perfumery is just the overuse of advertising, marketing and storytelling to sell a perfume. The proposed film narrative also ends up interfering in any way the freedom of interpretation as it suggests a visual set for the aroma to be felt.

These two aspects mentioned above certainly difficult conceptually separating Olibere of mainstream perfume scenario in case its aromas are not really good.  They end up not interfering since  the final result for the set of creations offered by the hands of perfumers Bertrand Duchaufour and Amelie Bourgeoius creates a cohesive whole, with aromas that are distinct but have a common thread among its smells, like different scenes of the same work . And the chosen combinations can achieve a balance between being familiar only to the point of causing comfort.

I leave aside the visual aspect for not being my strong suit in the analysis of a perfume and evaluate the story that fragrances  tell me with the smell only::

Il Mio Segreto: all the Olibere perfumes have a greater or lesser degree of a modern powdery and partly musky accord,  but in three creations of the brand this is an important part, seen through the theme of green and floral aromas. For me, Il Mio Segreto is the less interesting in that line, sounding a bit anonymous in its smell. If I did not know that Amelie Bourgeois is the perfumer, i would take a bet that was part of spring floral Duchaufour phase, reprising creations as Nuit Tubereuse and Ostara. Il Mio Segreto looks like a memory of a perfume, a mixture of jasmine tones, plant sap smell, spices creamy tones, powdery touches and a base with traces of wood, musk and a mild sweetness. It's like a dream that when you wake up you do not remember much.

Paradis Lontains: a Duchaufour creation, this goes in the same green-floral-powdery smell of Il Mio Segreto and it's like the more exotic and defined side of it. Some works of the perfumer often connect and you certainly realize that he goes back to themes used early in his career. Here, white floral accord gains the contours of a green tuberose, similar to that done in Nuit Tubereuse. At the same time, it is wrapped in exotic controlled nuances of mango and spices, referring the theme of perfumer creations for Neela Vermeire. The difference certainly is the sandalwood aroma, which gives an almost masculine aspect to create the basis when makes it gain an aroma that is a mixture of amber and wood chips (most typical aspect of the Australian variety of sandalwood) .

Balinesque: of the green and musky floral theme this is certainly the most interesting Olibere and better realized one. Another creation of Bertrand, however without referring specifically to previous work. It seems to build here with the combination of musks, orchid and green aromas a sense of incense powdery without smoked contours or the citric minty smell of incense. This is certainly the contribution of secondary notes of the base, passing a slightly resinous smell that combines floral orchid creaminess with a fresh and slightly spicy smells of the opening.

Midnight Spirit the second creation of Amelie Bourgeois to Olibere is part of the most exotic and Orientalist theme of the brand that dresses the powdery tones with something less delicate. Midnight Spirit is a must for vetiver fragrance fans in the style of Hermes Vetiver Tonka. The difference is that the almond tone is working on a classic amber colored perspective and along with the leather smell it remains as a secondary smell to the scent of vetiver and citrus aromas. It is also interesting an iris scent that plays the powdery role while integrates with the rooty vetiver nuances and the secondary proposed smell of leather.


Escapade a Byzance:  certainly the most striking scent of Olibere by offering an exotic and engaging journey through a path similar to that found in the patchouli and amber dominance of Coromandel. Here we are led back to the orientalist phase of Duchaufour and one of the things that always made his landmark work, wealth in nuances. That's what makes Escapade something new despite the similarity with the bittersweet, earthy and extremely elegant Coromandel aroma. There are fruity and juicy citrus hues that balance the more exotic elements. Is built around such a kaleidoscope of spices, lightly powdery flowers, almond tones and slightly alcoholics. I'm surprised that there is no iris listed in the composition, since there is an earthy orris tone which also unifies Escapade to others and makes it even more elegant.

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