Pesquisar este blog

28 de set de 2015

Magnolia Grandiflora Michel e Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine Fragrance Reviews English


A current look at both modern perfumery as criticism of modern perfumery that much bothers me sometimes is the need to literalism when it comes to the interpretation of a particular subject, be it a flower, a wood, a spice or any other material. It seems to me such a big setback to evaluate a composition for its ability to capture an odor realistically. Would it be possible? I honestly I do not think so, because a flower is not a uniform aromatic object without individual and temporal variations. .There is nos an universal smell of a flower, what we have are photographs, a view according to the eyes of the artist who interpret it . In the case of Magnolia Grandiflora, we have two visions, two different masters, two different worlds united by the same flower and the same great perfumer.

As both Sandrine and Michel have in common Edmond Roudnitska, the great master perfumer responsible for the classic works of art and timeless Dior perfumes and celebrated for what is considered one of the best lily of the valley perfume of all time, Diorissimo. I see the work of Roudnitska an abstraction always able to balance light and darkness, radiate an aromatic aura that wins you with the smallest details. And somehow, it echoes both the work of his pupil as in his son.

It's a shame that Sandrine has died so young. I see why in her interpretation of Magnolia one serene light, a peaceful moment captured in time. It makes flower harmony between male and female, between incense, citrus and spices, with a smoky aldehydic tone that seems to accompany from beginning until the end of the composition. It's like the magnolia blossomed revealing its most citrus side and slightly spicy, more male, with a light white floral candor, that brings me the smoothest part of geranium and rose. It's interesting how the incense emanates in harmony with more citrus and floral part, without sounding too smoky or too light. It is one last job of a talent which unfortunately left us too soon but showing have learned a lot from the game of abstraction and harmony of his master.

In the view of Michel, I see the most sensual side of the Edmond Roudnistka ideas, specifically remembering the aquatic floral chypre scent of Diorella. It's like Michel bring to life a more retro Magnolia, without commitment to be literal, an abstraction that suggests its most citrus and green nuances and engages in a thin lactonic floral aura of jasmine. The key here is balance again, a sensuality that suggests a slightly indole side without ever taking the perfume for a very Animalic way. In Michel's vision, I see a beautiful floral retro sensuality rarely seen today.

I believe that if Edmond Roudnitska were alive, would have been proud of his pupil and his son work. Its maximum was captured in different ways by both, that a beautiful scent is one that brings a shock, followed by a psychological sense. Never mind that none of them is really literal, both views are beautiful flower perfumes.