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24 de ago de 2015

Atelier Cologne - Mistral Patchouli, Santal Carmim, Mandarine Glaciale and Musc Imperial - Short Reviews English


In general, the Atelier Cologne line if creations is almost for me as a favorite curator scents, whether to the general public or brand owners. There are certainly marketing concepts made to create the desire for those who need a narrative, but they just don't seem to interfere with the final result, which is consistent as a whole. They are neither ultra-complicated perfume nor functional or commercial in cheaper sense of the idea, but an assortment of ideas that are unified by silky citrus aromas, delicate musks and minerals woody scents. In this new round, I dwell on 4 more creations from the brand:

Mistral Patchouli - is one of Atelier Cologne that sounds at the same time very classic and modern. The idea makes me refer to a basic version of the elements present in the Habit Rouge, cutting all powdery and sweet part and reworking so that the citrus sounding sweeter and less bitter. The patchouli is interesting and not too sweet and earthy or heavy on the camphor side, with iris doing the woody and earthy role as far here, with the geranium giving a light minty green and floral touch and anise providing a spicy nuance also a little bit minty.

Santal Carmim - of the brand's creations, is one of the most linear creations and straight into the skin, already delivering the three directions in which it will stay during its evolution. The citrus here do not show up, leaving more room for the background of velvety scent of musks and mineral woods. We have a sandalwood that is shown in 3 ways: sweet, caramel and candied at a time, more woody and creamy incensed a second and then immediately turning into a scent that brings the wood and suede at once. The mixture of these three very different faces from each other is what gives the charm and interesting aspect to this creation.

Mandarine Glaciale -  from the quartet evaluated this time this is what makes me more divided about the smell, because at the same time attracts me there is something that sounds out of place. Mandarine glaciale could be in the main collection portion of the first launch, since it is dominated by juicy citrus flavors. The mandarin scent refers to other creations of this kind, such as Eau de Mandarine Ambree Hermes or Acqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic. But the sweet and juicy part of the idea is mixed with more citrus, green and bitter aspect of the petigrain and spicy and refreshing scent of ginger. What puzzles me is that somewhere the composition also develops a note of unwashed hair that insists a bit to go before opening space for a smooth base of vetiver, amber and musk,

Imperial Musc - for now, is one of the hardest to find creations of the brand. Made to the Spa and Hotel Majestic in Barcelona this is also only sold in some of the physical Atelier Cologne stores. To me it sounds like a variation of the first colognes created by the designer but without adding anything new or interesting. Functions as an aroma to a spa, relaxing, clean, silky, a Zen moment. The mixture brings me to a cocktail of orange, white muscs, lavender and fresh fruit, an aroma that it's familiar in a way that you forgets exactly what you are using. Nice but one of the least memorable overall.

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