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15 de out de 2011

La Collection Couturier Cologne Royale - Christian Dior English Review


Notes: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, mint, musk

Cologne Royale is part of a expanded version of Dior's first collection of exclusive scents. Formely launched as a man's collection with four fragrances (Ambre Nuit, the now discontinued Cologne Blance, Eau Noire and Bois d'Argent), in 2010 the collection gained a new name (La Collection Coutorier), a unissex gender direction and seven new additions to the line, making it Dior's version of exclusive fragrances collections in the same vein of Les Exclusifs (Chanel) or the Hermessences (Hermès).

Cologne Royale is inspired in the classic colognes and it's an exercise of François Demarchy to produce the purest cologne possible by using high quality raw materials. But if the artistic direction and execution gave focus on this important part, they ended forgetting another one crucial to make it sound as rich and exclusive as it should sound: personality.

The lack of this aspect makes the fragrance just a lovely mixture of musky and citrus aromas. The supposedly focus that the perfumer said it was given on this one ends not showing on the evolution at the skin, so there is nothing on it at any moment that stand out as something unique, different from others colognes at this style. The idea opens with a traditional structure, a start of a lemon and orange aroma which is not floral and it's less bitter and more sweet and herbal. A shy and short usage of petit grain is present after the first moments, adding the bitter edge lacking at the first moments and giving the idea a more complex but still relaxed cologne impression. And then, after that, the scent goes straight to a faceless and lazy musky base, that tries to be interested by a use of mint that is not balanced properly and disappear quickly. After three hours you barely smell anything on Cologne Royale, and what you can smell is just a boring musky aroma.

The result doesn't reflect neither the claimed use of high quality materials or the price charged. Dior's Cologne Royale lack any personality, making it hard to justify why it exists. It may sustain itself just because it's a Dior's fragrance and due to the exclusive aura that it may carry, but this is a formula that you could just inside any bottle and sell any brand's name. It's a faceless thing, hard to love or to recommend, and even harder to remember.

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