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8 de out de 2011

Jasmin 17 - Le Labo Review (English)


Notes:  neroli, bigarade, jasmin, orange flower, amber, musk, sandalwood, vanilla

Jasmin 17  is between the worst and the best of Le Labo offerings. It's one of their fragrances that seems to have a coeherence between the name and the scent itself, something that I miss on a good part of them, creating an expectation which is usually not met. Also, it's not, like Fleur d'Oranger, too linear and it's one that use the musk and amber on it as it should be used, only as enhancing background components to the main theme, not like fillers for a thin base. But Jasmin 17 lacks that extra thing that makes Patchouli, Labdanum and Iris the most memorable ones of the line. So far this is a good jasmine composition where Mauricel Roucel explores the duality of Jasmine. This is an easy task for him, which usually works themes like pleasant versus dirty on most of his creations. On Jasmine 17 he favours the pretty aspect of jasmin, the greeness and citric fruity aspect, keeping the skanky and indolic part only at the background. He also works making it more dynamic with jasmine going in and out of the focus, leaving space to other notes colaborate and bring more complexity on it. Neroli and orange flower create a pleasant and sparkling natural orangey moment, one perfect for spring. The Neroli seems more evident than the orange flower and it's quite an irony that Jasmin 17 has more of a natural neroli aura than the Neroli one. Jasmin 17 keeps the spring field of flowers for a long time, replacing it for a transparent creamy and vanillic base that is better than the usual Le Labo base but still not so memorable. At least it does sound like a fragrance base, not like a laundry detergent one. If only the brand let the perfumer deliver a better base the result could have been much better, but considering that most of their compositions are like this it seems that they don't like fragrances that sound like fragrances after their evolution on skin. Jasmin 17 is a lovely jasmin creation, but it's only that. Is revolutionary today being safe? I hope that this revolution comes to an end soon.

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