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29 de ago de 2011

Opium Pour Homme EDT and EDP - Yves Saint Laurent English Review


Notes: black currant, star anise, galanga, pepper, tolu balsam, cedar, ambar, vanilla

If it’s difficult to find at the current shelves EDP concentrations available to the masculine public it was even rarer to find then 16 years ago. This market was always conservative and never saw with good yeas an eau de parfum, a more intense concentration associated with feminine fragrances. But creating controversies and defying ideas was an specialty of Yves Saint Laurent at the past, something evidenced when in 1995 they launched the male’s version of their feminine success of sales, Opium, in both EDT and EDP concentrations, creating a risky, unique and differentiated product, one of the few masculine orientals that weren’t scared to emphasize exactly what makes an oriental fragrance sensual – the base notes.

If for the ladies they used the strategy of creating a complex oriental composition of several layers that mixed fruits, spices, resins and incense, with the masculine the brand decide to bring to this public an oriental that explored in a focused and clear mode a combination o vanilla, resins and spices. Less complex than the ladies version, the masculine EDT alloyed the sweet and spicy part of the oriental Idea with a woodier and classic gentleman aura, with a brief moment for a different touch at the opening, a exotic sweet fruity one that didn’t lasted too long, giving space to a sober and formal evolution, where the cedar aroma stood out among the vanilla, amber and balsam. The edp version intensifies, on the other hand, the most significant elements of the oriental family, dipping the spices, woods and fruit in a intensified amber and vanilla base, creating a long lasting sweet aura, one which is singular among the other oriental fragrances for men.

The blackcurrant is less evident at the EDP version as a supporting note of the ambered vanillic aura that is evident on skin since the first moments. It’s noticeable that this aura is not equal all the times, forming an idea which is sometimes more bitter and sometimes more sweet at the opening. The pepper conducts the star anise and the galangal into a inverted aura, where the fresh piquancy of the spices leaves more space to the dry touch of the spices to take place and provide a hotter aura for the vanillic ambered idea. After some hours on skin, the creamy sugared aspect of vanilla is more intense, with the ambar assuming a blurred impression with the traces os spices and the use of sweet resins at the base, creating a surrounding cozy base for the vanilla to rest of the evolution on skin

Even that its prevailing sweet, Opium pour homme doesn’t insinuate foody aromas and it’s a more adult gourmand option, launched at a time where the preferences revolved on the aquatic fresh compositions or the louder dessert gourmands. Maybe due to a lack of business acumen of the brand managers, a fragrance that could have been a classic that would still sells well become a secondary product, a forgotten one that still stand out even after 16 years of launch with its EDP concentration. Instead of becoming a well-sought drug, Opium pour homme ended being with time a forgotten treasure, one that is sometimes discovered by the ones searching things outside the mediocrity of the currents launches that Yves Saint Laurent and other brands present every year.

2 comentários:

memoryofscent disse...

Interesting comparison. I find the edp version more intersting. The edt features a shaving cream accord, trademark of Rive Gauche Homme, that I find a bit cloying.

Rick disse...

Thanks for your comment memoryofscent! The edp is my favorite over the edt since i tried it. The edt really has this aspect due to the combination of pepper and cedar. I think that on Rive Gauche Homme part of the shaving cream accord is due to the clove aspects and the wood base. Is a common aura to some masculine fougeres.

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