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22 de ago de 2011

Opium EDT e EDP - Yves Saint Laurent English Review


Notes:  coriander, plum, citruses, mandarin orange, pepper, jasmine, cloves, bay,bergamot;carnation, sandalwood, patchouli, cinnamon, orris root, peach, lily-of-the-valley,rose, labdanum, tolu balsam, sandalwood, amber, opoponax, musk, coconut, vanilla, benzoin, vetiver, incense, cedar and myrrh

To speak of Opium in 2010 is to talk about another classic ruined. One of the Yves Saint Laurent blockbusters, Opium it’s an example where every detail has been carefully thought out, producing a perfume which impacts with name, smell and the various sexy and rich advertisement, as rich as the perfume itself Now reformulated, write about Opium is more of a lament on great scent killed by the opportunistic interests of the current industry.

Launched in the late 70s, it was a perfume that would define the complex style of its era, the eighties, with richness in details, intensity and a striking aura, similar in intensity and complexity of creations from the same time like Poison by Christian Dior and Giorgio by Giorgio Beverly HillsThe inspiration on Orient didn’t produce this time a sweet and harmonious dessert like Shalimar; rather, Opium brought a new aura, saturated on numerous elements that formed a striking complexity of fruits, spices, flowers and resins a redness aura that seemed addictive on its mutant powdery and incense shape throughout the evolution on skin.

EDP and EDT concentrations gravitate around the same dense and impressive, but with different details and harmonies regarding the intensity of the oriental resins and the spices. In EDT concentration, the emphasis is given on the dried fruit, and a slightly bitter citrus accord, with also more attention to the sensual flowers, candy and powdery, mixed on a complex spicy incensed impression The EDP would offer more of the spicy and sweet shades that only arrived at the base of EDT, creating an aura full of cloves and cinnamon and putting the fruit into the background of the powdery sensuality of the flowers. EDP ​​and EDT seem to converge to the same base, resin and sweet, but in different ways. On EDT each of the complex phases get divided in a scent that begins with a markedly dried fruitiness, spiciness and floweriness, a exotic travel that ends in resinous aroma, a incense among a vanilla base. In the EDP version the aroma of the base projects and stands out on the cloud of spices and dried fruits, creating an aura of sweet, smoky and woody connotations of an interesting harmony, not seem on the EDT

Opium has become so successful that several versions were released, some being collector’s bottles while others being summer concentration Is true that Opium was not only successful because of its aroma the name was also helped becoming a taboo on its era, with advertisements that explored sexy female figures and the suggestion of a perfume as an addictive drug. The whole complex set of factors made Opium a textbook example of the gold years at Yves Saint Laurent fragrances – a intelligent and well done controversy that would be copied by their rivals. Recent restrictions on materials present in its formula led for a need of reformulating it, and current licensee owners of the brand did not bother to keep one of the icons of perfumery as faithful as possible to its unique smell. Thus, writing a review for Opium now is writing a posthumous tribute to one of the largest commercial oriental perfumes, one of the most striking aromas of incense and cinnamon that ever existed, killed by the hands of those who transformed YSL into a fast-food brand of cheap and forgettable sensuality.

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