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1 de ago de 2011

Nu EDP e EDT - Yves Saint Laurent English Review


Notes:  bergamot, cardamom, pepper, orchid,jasmine,sandalwood, musk,vetiver

Launched at the beginning of 2000 decade, NU EDP was part of a mass-market and commercial perfumery bolder period, willing to take risks outside the advertisement area by producing fragrances that seemed to be more personal and capable of love or hate reactions.
It was the first fragrance that the brand offered to the market after the beginning of the artistic direction of Tom Ford and his polemic approach, constant in his couture works, would be noticed in NU EDP. Centered on the incense, it takes it out of the religious connotation to a more sensual one. The incense in NU EDP has a less smoky and resinous shape and it’s more explored with a slightly metallic aroma. You have a flowery and spicy accord created over the base incense, which is predominant from the beginning until the end. The black pepper increases the incensed aura and with the cardamom creates a skin scent impression that is not so evident but it’s a impression amplified by a musk that works on the background of the construction. The white orchid creates a discreet sweet flower that extends the sandalwood aroma and it’s quite a difficult flower to be picked throughout the intense impression that pepper and incense leaves on the nose from the beginning until the end.
Formed mainly by intense notes, NU edp is an smoky oriental that would have fit perfectly several exclusive and niche lines today and it’s probably because of the artistic side of the idea and of the fearless execution that it wasn’t a commercial success. The edt version, created two years later, try to soften the urban and unisex side decreasing the incense and pepper and reinforcing the floral aspects of orchid by adding the jasmine at the opening and extending the subtle sweetness of orchid with the vanilla at the base. Incense and pepper seem to only show significantly at the last hours on skin and with a less spicy and metallic impression.
Unfortunately, even the EDT version of NU was able to keep it at production and both versions were discontinued with an excuse that the orchid used in its formula. Even after 10 years of the EDP launch there wasn’t another commercial fragrance in the incense area that was so bold and intense as NU was.

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