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24 de jul de 2011

Pêche Noir - En Voyage Perfumes English Review



Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Gardenia, Peach,Rose, Orris, Muguet, Jasmin, Lily, Vetiver, Smoky Leather, Oakmoss, Musk, Amber, Sandalwood

The complicated aspect of bringing too many inspirations in a single perfume is creating an idea which is capable of satisfying all the inspirations without loosing the quality and identity of what is being created. Pêche Noire is a textbook example of how you can do it the right way, just combining inspirations that have something in common.

Shelley has conceived an olfactive trip around the peach smell using a collage of different ideas around the fruit. Using the symbology of peach in Chinese tradition, the split-peach geisha hairdo, the allusion to Venus Goddess and the relation with Chinese Tao concept of fusing opposite ideas, Pêche Noire is an intriguing peach and flowers aromas that results in chypre floral evocative of the mystery and deepness of the best classical chypres.

The idea starts it olfactive trip with a sweet and silky peach shinning over the soft citrus impression of bergamot and the rich floral start. Hyacinth, Gardenia and Jasmin produce a floral harmony and it’s mixed with the aldehidic impression of peach to produce a néctar of flowers where you see the honeyed floral part and innocent fruit referring to the sensual and delicate idea of its inspiration. Galbanum and orris create a secondary aroma to the main theme and they are responsible to contribute with the classical chypre aspect since they create an earthy and dark aroma that interacts with the shiny and sensual fruity floral accord. The progression of this idea is towards a greener floral aroma, where the lily of valley composition is used to push to the front the green aspect of jasmin to create a retro floral idea made modern by a subtle and whispering aroma that both create.

The darkest moment that fuses the contrast between masculine and feminine aromas happens at the base, where you can notice a dry vetiver adorned by dark roses, fresh oakmoss and dark leathery impression which is used just to enhance the dryness of the chypre idea and which is mixed with the cozy and creamy harmony of amber and sandalwood.

Like a geisha, Pêche Noire seems proficient in multiple knowledge and manners, without ever loosing the loveliness, always on the edge of sensual and conservative, aspects that make it a cozy aromatic fellowship and a fragrant desirable object.

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