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21 de jul de 2011

Onda Extrait de Parfum - Vero Profumo English Review


Notes: Vetiver, ginger, mace, coriander, oakmoss

Vero Kern might have started her line in a unusual way for a modern brand, with only 3 fragrances and available only at extraits; but it's an striking start for a compact line. The first extraits are an exploration through classical ideas and excellent natural materials, with quality and a richness of details which is hard to find lately. Each of the three fragrances seems to have a different shape, and Onda is her piece of art that explores the dark and woody side of vetiver, pushing it to concentrations that few would dare to put into a composition. 


Onda is an olfact mistery, a fragrant world at itself and that doesn't develop on a classical top to base notes evolution of an edp or on a symphony structure common in extraits. Instead, it's like a vetiver universe that is constantly reconfiguring its shape during the time it stays on skin, with the chosen notes structured with similar densities, with a dark aromatic facet that make them like a single entity surrounding the vetiver, a structure that sometimes let you see the elements of what its made. Being such a dense and noir universe, you need to enter it carefully to understand the order on its apparent chaos. The high vetiver concentrations let you see with evidence its secondary leathery aspect, one that only is seem at some vetiver fragrances; the note at this univserse alto seems to reproduce the earthy density of a chypre base, which is reinforced here by a small oakmoss dose that goes in and out of focus.

Woody, chypre and leathery at equal proportions and in a way that you cannot easily predict from the first time, Onda starts with a dense smell, dry, with a vegetal inky connotations and its a fragrance that always develops over the facets of those three olfactive families. Ginger, mace and coriander build a dense layer of a dry and restraint spiciness, curiously similar to a propolis smell and that amplifies the chypre facet. But sometimes you see the vetiver in more evidence, more green and dark, more leathery other times and more chypre too, going through the constantly reshaping evolution described above. The quality of natural materials and the high concentration make the history unfold on skin throught twelve continous hours of a complex evolution. Like its expected from an unniverse different from the one we are used, Onda can be scary and troublesome at first, but don't be fool by it, because it's a dark universe of a unique beauty that make you want to stay on it as you understand to see through its darkness.

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