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4 de abr de 2011

Sous Le Vent - Guerlain (English Review)

Notes: bergamot, lavender, tarragon, basil, jasmine, carnation, green accord, orris, oakmoss, vetiver, patchouli, woody accord.

Altough one of the brand's specialties being the use of gourmand notes in complex and warm compositions, in general inspired by love, Guerlain has always stood out in the creation of classic and elegant smells, that blends citric notes with a quality that few brands do. Sous Le Vent is one of their classica creations, bring back from their vast catalog, which portrays perfectly this kind of composition by a complex and light aromatic structure, a classic cologne transformed by the chypre and fougere accords.

Restrictions about the uso of certain raw materials interfere in the reproduction of Sous Le Vent as exactly it was when created by the brand for the dance Josephine Baker, but the reconstruction is capable of creatin a classical and timeless aura of a fragrance which communicates the elegancy of lost cinema eras.Sous Le Vent opens in a delicious citric and aromatic opening, slightly bitter, where the lavender, tarragon and basil blends perfectly to be like an aromatic support to one of the best bergamot interpretations available. Other sides of this creation, like subtle floral of carnation, jasmine and orris, are detectable after a few moments of the citrus opening. Altough,  this exotic composition is all about linking a cítric and aromatic opening to the dry chypre base, where the patchouli and oakmoss are the standout elements between the vetiver and woody accords. They form a dry, woody, alsmot salty base, which is unusual soft for notes so intense like those ones.  There is something carnal and sweet in this exotic wind, which sometimes is expressed by a sweet and flowery, but dirty and almost animalic, flowery combination of jasmine and orris. This sometimes is manifested by the spicy, warm, mossy carnation accord too, but those parts are discrete details of this serious and simple trick of retaining the most it can the dualtiy of the refreshening and cool citrus aromatic base versus the darkness of the woody chypre base.

Probably, the impossibility of using oakmoss in the same amounts of the old classicals make the Sous Le Vent base less dark and exotic, favoring the aromatic and citric side. This, fortunately, doesn't compromise the classical and charming aura of Sous Le Vent. Also, the actual balance make this one, initially created for the feminine public, a perfect sophisticated blend for the masculine public, as timeless as the fascination for the tropics exoticity that inspired this masterpiece.

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