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16 de mar de 2011

Kobe - Xerjoff (English Review)


Notes: Neroli, Petit grain, Bergamot, Agarwood, palisanderwood , fava tonka, amber

One positive thing that happens when a specific note gets trendy is the abundance of options that begins to appear. A smell once rare to be find in composition starts, due to the fashion, accessible in different brands and formats. A negative side of this is that, generally, the diverse options end being too much repetitive, copying the first fragrances that become successful with that note. This is what is happening with agarwood lately. A fragrant resin obtained from some wood species, it’s very traditional in the Arabic perfumery, but so complex and dense that few occidental fragrances dared to use it in high doses until recently, when the market was invaded with leads of agarwood similar fragrances, always exploring the same animalic or thick and sweet resinous facets of this note in similar forms that make the fragrances look alike after some moments on skin. Few fragrances dared to explore the meditative, silent side that agarwood offers in its dry woody and incensed smell. Kobe, from Xerjoff, stands out for being very successful exploring this path. 
Taking the japonese Kobe city, scenario of a meteor fall (all shooting stars fragrances are related to cities and meteor events), Xerjoff explores the agarwood note in a ceremonial, quite, sacred qay. The brand uses its preferencies for classical compositions to create a perfect fragrance from the beginning until the end, complex and pleasant. The citrus opening notes are of incredible quality and last a good time, creating a path of citric flowers and bright green aromas that have subtle bittersweet facets. They seem to prepare and open the way to what will come next, the triumphal use of agarwood. This is not a tiresome and intense agarwood, delicate and strong at the same time, as a beauty which seems fragile but it’s not. The agarwood emerges from the citric path, with a woody dry aroma reminiscent of new rope, and its blended with the palisander wood to create and intriguing contrast of wood and something green, fruity, and slightly bittersweet, which seems to suggest that the palisander wood has something in common with the passion fruit.smell. The base creates a lingering skin scent of subtle incensed ambered and nutty fava tonka that seems proper and perfect to finish the composition.
Kobe is one of the best examples of the quality that Xerjoff fragrances have. Combining tradition, complexity, use of impeccable raw materials, it creates an extremely delightful olfactory experience, a journey of contemplative, but not silent, to a world of agarwood, citrus notes and subtle sweet incense, a journey where the investment made seems to be worth every cent paid.

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