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15 de mar de 2011

Dhofar - Xerjoff (English Review)

Notes: Lavender, Pine, Orange Flower, Carnation, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Labdanum

An expensive and more exclusive fragrance usually creates a higher exigency level than a more accessible and affordable fragrance. After all, you expect that the investment you do to purchase it to be translated into a unique product, with amazing longevity, perfect evolution, and different of something that the cheaper things you can buy more widely. This means that the quality is an essential aspect, and Xerjoff understand this while putting it as a main attribute of their perfumes. But, not all their offerings use the raw materials of excellent quality into final products that are above what you have available even when having similar style. It`s what happen with Dhofar, one of the masculine fragrances of the line with chypre and fougere aspects, failing in both olfactory faimilies.

Dhofar gives you that impression of an unfinished formulation on skin, a too simpler idea, a little bit crude, where the details haven`t been adjusted yet. The main note on Dhofar throught the evolution is carnation, which confer it a typical clove aspect of the fougeres from the 80`s. The carnation is spicy, hot, close with a part of the tobacco smell. Other notes exhists on the fragrance as mere furnishings, almost nonexistent ones, that appears in a fast manner, or in a too discreet one, or even reinforcing the ordinary formultion. The aromatic lavender, incredibly, only last the few minutes of the opening and the pine seems to be absent on skin. The orange floral is very soapy here and it shares the main stage with the carnation the rest of the composition. There is a shy dry chypre base and something incensed so subtil that you have to pay too much attention to be able to get it blended with the carnation.

As if the uninteresting formulation wasn`t enough, Dhofar also fails blending notes that should produce something with decent sillage grom skin. They seem to create a skinscent wich last but that gets shier and shier as the time goes by. Different from Oroville, wich gets discreet after a triumphant opening, Dhofar starts boring and end this way. It`s a proof that, unfortunately, good raw materials cannot save a bad product.

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