25 de abr de 2017
Utilizar perfumes como Ladro e Vet 312 um após o outro é como entrar numa espécie de máquina do tempo que retrata não somente o cenário da perfumaria nacional mas a história da L'Acqua di Fiori na perfumaria do Brasil. Meu relacionamento pessoal com os perfumes da L'Acqua me fazem ver como uma empresa é capaz de capturar tão bem ideias clássicas da perfumaria internacional sem que elas pareçam inferiores ou de forma que a inspiração se torne irrelevante diante do que se recebe.
Ladro é como uma representação da perfumaria masculina da década de 90, pautada principalmente na transformação do gênero fougére dentro das novas moléculas sintéticas que lhe garantiriam a leveza e duração que inaugurariam o que hoje chamamos na perfumaria como novo frescor. Ele é também uma representação de um momento de apogeu da marca, uma época onde a L'Acqua era vista como uma marca de prestígio e seletiva dentro da perfumaria comercial nacional.
Ladro é a interpretação da L'Acqua para a ideia presente no Cool Water e suas pequenas mudanças funcionam muito bem. O enfoque é dado mais na parte fougére aromática do que no aspecto azedinho, metálico e clean das moléculas aquáticas e do dihidromircenol. Ao mesmo tempo, leves toques frutados e verdes reforçam o frescor e a leveza enquanto um fundo de musk, madeiras leves e um toque levemente ambarado segura bem a composição na pele. Talvez pelo revival recente dos fougeres e pelo uso mais moderado do novo frescor Ladro ainda soe tão contemporâneo quanto em sua década de lançamento.
Avançando para o presente momento, Vet 312 é uma aposta da L'Acqua justamente para recuperar seu espaço de prestígio e refinamento dentro da perfumaria nacional. Não que a qualidade atual dos perfumes da marca sejam ruins, mas uma má administração em anos anteriores quase a fez sumir de vez e por vários anos ela focou mais em sua sobrevivência e reconstrução do que no lançamento de novos perfumes. E aos poucos ela tem retomado o ritmo normal e um dos primeiros indícios é o lançamento de Vet 312.
Apesar do nome intrigante para um perfume nacional, quase como um codinome de uma das versões do projeto, Vet 312 é um bom representante de como o frescor da perfumaria masculina evoluiu para um contexto mais amadeirado e onde o vetiver tem sido protagonista. A marca mesmo enfatiza em toda a sua comunicação e nos detalhes do produto que o objetivo era criar um perfume com enfoque na raiz e em seu aroma complexo que vai do úmido ao amadeirado. A forma como eles fazem isso é interessante, algo entre a aura clássica e aromática de um Vetiver Carven e um aroma cítrico mais clean de um Tom Ford Grey Vetiver. Tais perfumes servem apenas como referência, pois Vet 312 trilha seu próprio caminho, pondo bastante ênfase na lavanda e em musks para fazer uma ponte entre um público mais heterogêneo e um aroma mais específico. No final das contas, funciona muito bem e serve como um Vetiver introdutório para quem não possui muita intimidade com tal nota. Um bom recomeço de lançamento para a marca.
17 de abr de 2017
From the most classic French brands Guerlain has been the one that year after year has been running like a steady machine, operating in the different price and concept levels of expected luxury. You can certainly say that the brand is very far from its past lately (and it certainly is, for my sadness sometimes), but you cannot say that they have stopped on time. And for more that some of their choices might be questionable, as you'll see on my analysis bellow, the scents still show a good consistency and enjoyable developments on skin. Certainly many of them if launched by other brands would be better appreciated, but we are passionated from Guerlain (well, i certainly am) and expect the best if possible, so the demand level is very high.
Starting from the most collectible and expensive launch of this year we have the traditional Muguet, a fragrance that the brand has been exclusively launching every May 1st to celebrate the worker's day. Its price certainly reflect the very limited cirulation, but this year the brand opted for a quite questionable presentation: even that beautiful, the very minimalist bottle resembles the design they opted for their bath and body line and for their line of room's spray. I think that the choice was to match the interpretation given to the Muguet theme here. It's not so far from previous 2013 version i had the chance to own but it seems a more straightfoward incarnation of it. It gives us a muguet accord that sounds slightly waxy, citrus and fresh, with a flower aroma that strongly reminds you of a green jasmine. The base seems to rely on a soft sandalwood aroma with subtle incense/resin hints. I'm not fond of Muguets but this one i could see myself wearing it - if i could find it for a more suitable price (a 125ml bottle costs 430 euros).
Still on the luxury side of the brand but navigating in more affordable waters we have a new addition to the Absolu d'Orient series, one that seems to offer a quite reasonable price per ml on the arab thematic. Oud Essentiel is not that far from the previous scents Santal Royal and Ambre Eternel, but it's not exactly a surprise since this has been the approach for scents with an Arab Thematic. Even that not novel. Oud Essentiel is very well balanced: it seems to put more emphasis on a velvet slightly crude leather, which acts in the background for the sweet fruity spicy theme of oud, rose and saffron. As expected, the projection is great and the sillage is very good, but it's something kind of given with oud scents. I say that Oud Essential is not a fragrance that will make you love or hate Oud, but it's something you can appreciate if you already don't have enough in this aisle.
Finally, we have a curious mainstream creation with L'Homme Ideal Sport. This one seems tailor made for the global expansion plans that the Brand started to unfold this year. Sport scents still sell well with the masculine public and it's an easy path for Guerlain to become more known. So the choice of adding a sport fragrance with an acquatic is not hard to understand. Still, i remember that when i first tred L'Homme Ideal Sport, i hated it a lot. The acquatic note seemed strong, unpleasant and very like all the rest. But, as a curveball, trying L'Homme Ideal Sport again was a kind of a surprise, one hard to define exactly. The "sportish" thing is still there, but very light. In its place there is a curious choice of a fragrance which seems to oscilate between masculine and feminine. It smells a little bit floral and nutty a first, almost like a sport version of la petite robe noire. But then the almond merges with the coumarin and the more fougere part of the fragrance takes stage, producing a subdued but refined merge of herbs, woods, musks, hints of spices and green-coumarinic nuances. It's an odd orchestration, which is a good surprise for a Sport thing. But it certainly one that I personally wouldn't use on very hot days to avoid the distortion of the acquatic part.
14 de abr de 2017
Something you might notice after paying closely attention to the themes and descriptions of all O'Driú fragrances is that they are in their surface nothing more than an acid and ironic take on what many mainstream brands do with their concepts and descriptions for their fragrances. Angelo uses the same weapons to fight against the system, but the same essence and this what makes every O'driú fragrance a compelling experience. It's like listening to good weird music: at first the synths might sound odd, but the more you listen to it the more you see the balance and structure lurking on the background.
In Satyricon Angelo and his collaborative team draws inspiration from Ancient Rome from a Dyonisian perspective, something that seems to appeal to the irrational, the instincts and emotions on perfumery. It's a more philosophic take on the lust and pleasure principle appeal that perfumery as whole seems to explore, but ones that promises you chaos, classic influences and a plethora of nuances and delivers it. Just like Peety, Satyricon is again a chameleonic scent and channels very different things through its presence on skin.
It opens in a weird way like some of Angelo creations, with a green humid aroma that seems to come from chamomile and sage together. This is contrasted with a very dry and burnt like leathery aroma. Once you focus on it the scents gives you a blast of spices, a duet of dry clove against a cumin that delivers here the sweat of human bodies that the description says. Then, there is the wine and food nuances, and the combination of spices and wine makes of think of mulled wine. There is an intriguing pineapple effect here that seems to go in and out of focus on the first moments of the development. Then it's replaced by a riped plum aroma that seems to give with the clove and a dry amber background a sort of vintage chypre aura. But Satyricon is here to enjoy the ride, so it shifts again into something more resinous and vanilla like, a very cozy and languid base after the sensory overload of the first moments on skin.
Pathetique is one of the most dry and foward criticism of Angelo to the perfume industry as the name says it all. It's a mock of what marketing has become in the perfume industry, with all the perfume dinasties, fancy imaginary materials and fake royalty histories. The way the name is written on the bottle and it's described shows that this intentions here are ones of bringing back (or bringing for the first time) the ethical path to perfumery again (path etique).
This certainly works because of the wonderful and sensual scent that unfolds on skin. It is for me one of the sunniest moments in Angelo's work as a whole. The languid impression that i feel on Satyricon base is the mood here overall, like a kind of feline enjoying the spot of sun in the middle of the afternoon. It opens with a beautiful honey flower impression that is set against of a quite coconut woody aroma - this is certainly an effect gave by a proeminent use of amyris wood, which has in itself this woody coconut sensation. Then you get a green berry-like aroma that is contrasted with something slightly aldehydic and woody and at this moment i feel like Satyricon is channeling a compact shape of Givenchy masterpiece Insensee. It settles down to a cozy and slightly incensy woody base that lingers on skin with very subtle sweet tones. Overall, it's a fragrance that gives me a relaxing and honest experience. The path is simple: do very good fragrances that speak for itself. They don't need to please everyone with generic marketing ploys, they just need to be genuine and well orchestrated. That this has to be reinforced at this moment of the game it's what is really pathetic in the perfume industry.
12 de abr de 2017
Reviewing Peety is something different than reviewing other fragrances from Angelo. This happens because my first hate and despise and dismiss for what Angelo had to offer in O'DRIÚ started with the launchment of this one. Was Angelo mocking all perfume lovers by creating something that would suggest you to enhance it using your own pee? I took my perfume passion too serious and i let my prejudices win me on this. I hated peety, i wrote about my feelings and then moved on. And since life is very ironic, here i am today seeing that i was wrong and there was something very solid about Angelo work if you cut through the provocative aura.
Peety is a junction of words: pee and pity, but not pity in a condescending way. It's interesting to see that the latin word from which pity derives, Pieta, goes into a more divine direction, something related to devotion and loyalty. Thinking about the junction of words it seems to have two meanings here: a unique bond between the perfumer and the final user and at the same time a narcissism of a person, an almost religious devotion to itself, something that is very suitable in our modern days.
It is described as a dadaistic perfume, which at the first time i thought odd since most of dadaism artworks seems devoid of a easy to read meaning for me, which is not the case here. But then, searching about dadaísm i could understand why: Peety is in its essence a dadaístic perfume in a way that it challenges the culture and values of current perfumes - in special the frivolous way which the industry sell massive uniqueness, a fragrance that it's so special to you and for other thousands of people like you. And it certainly uses an outrageous element - pee - to scandalize and shock the audience and I'm a proof of that.
But i wanted to understand, after all, if adding your pee to peety would be just a way to criticize the system or a very avant-gard and radical way to make something unique, bespoke to you. I thought, a fragrance is full of elements that are added to preserve it, so would a few drops of urine ruin it? Also, if we have always accepted materials like beeswax (which is regurgitated by bees), ambergris (whale's vomite), civet (extracted from the anal glands of civet) and musk (also from glands), what would be using your own pee? Just another animalic material, this one got in a ecofriendly fashion.
Wearing Peety without pee is already in itself a satisfying experience. Again i see the classic influens of Angelo showing on here, from a scent that seems to incorporate fougere, animalic and sweet fruity aspects altogether. It has that chamaleonic aura that many classics have, one that keeps you guessing what you are wearing: it's sweet, riped fruits? Or maybe dry spices? What about aromatic herbs against sensual ylang? Or even an animalic castoreum combined with dry amber and patchouli? And what about a sweet and smoky tobacco aroma against a minty-like ginger? Those are the varied layers of Peety and it's a very rich experience trying to pay attention into all of them.
Using my own pee on Peety in fact changed this experience. I added three drops to half of my sample and expected two weeks before wearing it a day after i wore the regular one. I expected a more fruity nuance to emerge based on what i discussed with Angelo, but curiously Peety got very focused and chaneled a very good masculine fougere chypre from 80's in this incarnation. Suddenly a clove-ish aura got stronger in contrast with dirty musks, patchouly, making the herbs standing too. It seemed to exhale a very mainly aura, almost raw and keept from being too much by the subtle sweetness showed in the resins of the base, constrasting with some hints of moss. It wasn't something outrageous or shocking, it gave me more a nostalgia feeling of a time where fragrances seemed to be made from a singular vision to be shared and appreciated with the ones that enjoyed it. It seems to fulfill the first meaning of pity instead the second one and it was a moment of breaking through what was a taboo for me. Still, i think this will be the first and the last time that i wear my own pee as the final layering touch in a fragrance.
O acervo histórico da perfumaria brasileira é muito mal conservado para o público de forma geral. Mesmo casas grandes como a Natura não possuem interesse em criar ou disponibilizar ao público uma sessão de patrimônio que mantenha as descrições, notas e informações de suas criações que já não estão entre nós. Quando um amigo me ofereceu e me enviou uma amostra do perfume Sintonia Total Feminino me deparei com tal problema: não há sequer UMA foto oficial da marca do perfume na internet. É como se para efeitos atuais ele nunca tivesse existido na marca.
Isso é uma pena, pois Sintonia Total é um dos femininos mais antigos da marca que é capaz de explorar as notas almiscaradas e frescas que a marca tanto utiliza sem cair no lugar comum de vários perfumes femininos da Natura. Se sentido no escuro certamente passaria por uma criação importada de alguma grife de prestígio dada a combinação equilibrada de notas adocicadas, atalcadas, almiscaradas e especiadas.
A composição abre com um frescor mais típico de um perfume masculino, algo cítrico indo quase na direção de um novo frescor metálico. Um toque de noz moscada e de anis torna esse momento mais interessante e rapidamente Sintonia Total mostra seu aroma aveludado, uma mistura de musks. notas abaunilhadas e um aconchegante aroma atalcado e balsâmico que remete a iris e benjoim. Há uma aura oriental com um quê clássico distante, algo que raramente a marca costuma trabalhar em sua perfumaria. Creio que a impressão mais minimalista que o frasco passa nunca tenha atraído público suficiente para seu interessante aroma. É uma pena, pois é uma ideia muito bem orquestrada e desperdiçada, que pelo menos poderia ter sua história preservada como algo diferente e sofisticado que a marca já disponibilizou a seus clientes.